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Here are some of the most common question new cigars smokers have. There are still many more questions that will come up and the best thing to do is check with your favorite tobacconists (keep them on speed dial) and find out the least busiest night to go and pick their brains on all the concerns you might have for that week. Also ask the regulars and take it with a grain of salt because you will get the regulars opinion and sometimes they may be a little far fetched in their opinions and it may not work for you even though it works for them.
Q: How long can I store cigars in a ziploc-style baggie?
A: It depends entirely on your ambient climate because every time you open the baggie the air within will be exchanged. In some climates cigars can be kept in ziplocs for literally a few months with no problems, while in very dry climates 3-4 days tops may be the serviceable limit of using plastic bags. This would include Arizona, Nevada, parts of Southern California, New Mexico and Colorado.
Q: I left the lid of my humidor open for 8 hours and now it is 63% relative humidity and I am worried about destroying my cigars! What do I do???
A: Don't worry about it. 63% is no big deal and for 8 hours it is absolutely nothing. In fact some folks like their cigars at 63% RH all the time. Your humidor will slowly return to a higher RH, and if after a few days it doesn't then add some water to your humidifier.
I know many books, magazines, humidor makers, credo salesmen, and a bunch of others have given you the impression that you must be at 70/70, but I swear on my soul this is UNTRUE.
Cigars are far more durable than the 70/70 zealots contend and can easily endure some time at a lower humidity. In fact, many tobacconists overseas utilize 60-64% RH as their ideal RH for long term storage. Personally, I like 73%-78% myself for smoking, and have smoked tons of cigars kept at 65% RH with no problems whatsoever.
Q: How long can I store cigars in a ziploc-style baggie?
A: It depends entirely on your ambient climate because every time you open the baggie the air within will be exchanged. In some climates cigars can be kept in ziplocs for literally a few months with no problems, while in very dry climates 3-4 days tops may be the serviceable limit of using plastic bags. This would include Arizona, Nevada, parts of Southern California, New Mexico and Colorado.
Q: I left the lid of my humidor open for 8 hours and now it is 63% relative humidity and I am worried about destroying my cigars! What do I do???
A: Don't worry about it. 63% is no big deal and for 8 hours it is absolutely nothing. In fact some folks like their cigars at 63% RH all the time. Your humidor will slowly return to a higher RH, and if after a few days it doesn't then add some water to your humidifier.
I know many books, magazines, humidor makers, credo salesmen, and a bunch of others have given you the impression that you must be at 70/70, but I swear on my soul this is UNTRUE.
Cigars are far more durable than the 70/70 zealots contend and can easily endure some time at a lower humidity. In fact, many tobacconists overseas utilize 60-64% RH as their ideal RH for long term storage. Personally, I like 73%-78% myself for smoking, and have smoked tons of cigars kept at 65% RH with no problems whatsoever.
I own 6 humidors and only two of them even have hygrometers in them. I just use my fingers to judge them. This does come with some experience but it ultimately is based on what you feel is a good feeling for your cigars. Remember you have to smoke them and if you don't like how they feel then do the opposite of what you have been doing.
It really isn't as critical as some folks make it seem. And your scenario is a total non-issue. So just close the lid and give your humidor a couple of days to come up to the humidity you desire.
Too many new cigar smokers get way too uptight over this humidity issue and it really is the fault of the so-called "experts" constantly parroting this 70/70 stuff. If you ask anyone that has been storing and smoking cigars for years they would tell you to relax.
Too many new cigar smokers get way too uptight over this humidity issue and it really is the fault of the so-called "experts" constantly parroting this 70/70 stuff. If you ask anyone that has been storing and smoking cigars for years they would tell you to relax.
The bottom line is to not get overly upset about slight deviations in relatively humidity. With time you will learn what you like, some people prefer their smokes moister while others like them drier. In your drier climates you may want to run a little higher than you 70/70 just to compensate for the drier ambient air in those places.
Q: How do I keep a humidor with a passive humidifier at a lower RH?
A: Basically you add less water less frequently. The PG in the humidifier can only expel the moisture it contains so if you give it less water to work with your humidor will be drier. Typically I never add water until I get distilled water until I get to about 64% RH or so, and then I add just small amounts. It varies with the season, the humidor, and how often I open it. Over time you will simply learn how much water your humidor needs and roughly at what interval.
Watch the relative humidity in your local area also because when the season change or the local weather for the day can make a big difference in how your ambient air reacts with your humidor should you open it.
Q: How long can I store cigars?
A: Indefinitely. Under proper conditions cigars can remain "smokable" for decades, even a century. However, it is important to understand the difference between "smokable" versus enjoyable. Over time all cigars will begin to loose their essential oils and body. Eventually they will become flavorless. How long this takes depends entirely on the cigars themselves and varies greatly. Ex. Clinton supposedly found a few boxes in the Oval office before leaving office and found cigars in premo condition and they were left over from J.F.K. Now that's what you call a find! Everything was smokable and of course expensive if ever sold.
Q: How do I keep a humidor with a passive humidifier at a lower RH?
A: Basically you add less water less frequently. The PG in the humidifier can only expel the moisture it contains so if you give it less water to work with your humidor will be drier. Typically I never add water until I get distilled water until I get to about 64% RH or so, and then I add just small amounts. It varies with the season, the humidor, and how often I open it. Over time you will simply learn how much water your humidor needs and roughly at what interval.
Watch the relative humidity in your local area also because when the season change or the local weather for the day can make a big difference in how your ambient air reacts with your humidor should you open it.
Q: How long can I store cigars?
A: Indefinitely. Under proper conditions cigars can remain "smokable" for decades, even a century. However, it is important to understand the difference between "smokable" versus enjoyable. Over time all cigars will begin to loose their essential oils and body. Eventually they will become flavorless. How long this takes depends entirely on the cigars themselves and varies greatly. Ex. Clinton supposedly found a few boxes in the Oval office before leaving office and found cigars in premo condition and they were left over from J.F.K. Now that's what you call a find! Everything was smokable and of course expensive if ever sold.
Q:Can I store my cigars in the refrigerator?
A: No, cigar like humidity and the old school way of putting cigarettes in the refrigerator is not a good thing for cigars as it will lead to drying them out. Since almost all of today's refrigerators actually dehydrate their interior to prevent condensation from forming on their exterior. Now, an old refrigerator or freezer that you leave unplugged can make for an excellent alternative large storage device for cigars.
A: No, cigar like humidity and the old school way of putting cigarettes in the refrigerator is not a good thing for cigars as it will lead to drying them out. Since almost all of today's refrigerators actually dehydrate their interior to prevent condensation from forming on their exterior. Now, an old refrigerator or freezer that you leave unplugged can make for an excellent alternative large storage device for cigars.
Q: What do you think of cigar jars?
A: Well I have had a pasta jar humidor since 1992 and it's the best I have found for some long term storage but I can only hold 25 sticks at any one time. I do keep an eye on it so that my cigars don't get over humidified. I do have a gauge and humidification inside so it is controlled and I usually keep my cubans, hard to finds or limited release cigars in it and my storage is a year or better.
Q: Should I leave the cellophane on or take it off?
A: Leaving the cellophane on protects the cigars from tattering and splitting while you handle them. Also cellophaned cigars are easier to take on the "road" and to send to friends.
Without the cellophane, cigars tend to breath a little better, and in turn age better but not very quickly. Also I find it much more appealing to open my humidor and see cigars in the nude.
Cellophane is permeable to water and air allowing their transfer through its surface, but not as easily as without the cellophane. So if I receive a batch of cigars that is freshly rolled I sometimes remove the cello to allow the excess moisture incurred during the rolling process to dissipate. Cigars that become too moist in cellophane take a long time to dry out. Either way is appropriate, and in the end it is really just a matter of personal choice.
Q: Do cigars age in tubes?
A: Yes and no. Cigars seem to age some in the tubes, but mostly I think this is due to most tubes not having a true seal. In an absolutely sealed environment it is impossible for a cigar to have the necessary oxygen required for it to breath and age properly. You will note that on many tubes it mentions that a cigar will "remain fresh until opened" and personally I do not consider this an ultimately desirable goal. Tubes are great for protecting cigars for a few weeks, even months outside of a humidor if they have a good seal, but if tubed cigars are to be kept longer and you wish to ensure that they age properly I recommend you remove the end caps and place them in your humidor. With all of that said I have smoked many tubos whose seals were intact for years and their cigars were quite tasty. But no matter what you do, always store tubed cigars in a humidor if you are going to have them for any substantial length of time since most seals are not perfect.
Q: Can I leave the cigars in the boxes as they age?
A: Absolutely, in fact most collectors do. However if the box is sealed with a plastic wrap you should remove this prior to placing the box in your cabinet humidor or igloodor.
Q: Will my cigars "marry" if they are sitting side by side in my humidor without dividers or cellophane?
A: No. I understand the concept of marrying, and have witnessed claro cigars that have been slightly stained with oils from a dark rich colorado cigar that were sitting beside it, but that was only after MANY years. Honestly I do not consider the marrying of different cigars to be a problem for those who smoke from their humidors on a semi-regular basis.
I have been storing singles side by side for well over a decade with no impact whatsoever. Personally, I find the concept of marrying flavors between differing cigars to be an issue that "cigar wonks" banter about, but has little basis in reality and does not warrant any concern on your part. You have to keep in mind when you read all the recent advice printed about cigars that quite a bit of it is far too reaching and overtly scientific without cause.
I have kept a wide variety of smokes crammed together for long periods (5+ years) in my "smoke from someday" humidors without this ever occurring. The only place I would be concerned is to always keep flavored, i.e.. rum soaked, Lars, Acid etc. separate. Also for long term aging in quantity I believe in leaving the cigars in their original boxes if possible. Bottomline - the concept of cigar flavors marrying/blending is overhyped.
Q: Should I rotate the cigars in my humidor?
A: No. This is another bit of silly advice that is often recommended by the anal retentive. The difference between the relative humidity from the bottom to the top of your humidor is insignificant and is certainly nothing to worry about. Some "experts" have even suggested that by not rotating your cigars that "all the oils will settle to the bottom side." This is an incredibly lame statement. The essential oils in a cigar will always seep in the direction of a drier surface. In a stable environment this is almost always towards the top which is the side exposed to air. You will see these oils crystallize becoming plume (bloom) over months and years. It is possible for the cedar floor of your humidor to wick some oil to the bottom, but it happens so seldom and without any negative impact it is not even worthy of consideration. Eventually all excess oils will dissipate without a trace except for possibly bloom.
The only legit reason to rotate stock within your humidor is because you want your cigars to be more convenient for you to smoke. Less often smoked ones on the bottom, and the ones you are grabbing all the time on the top.
Q: Why does my humidor smell like ammonia when I open it?
A: Ammonia is typically expelled by cigars that are very young. Sometimes it is the result of them actually containing under-cured tobacco, but most commonly in premium cigars it means they are just young and require additional aging. If I get cigars that are young or under aged i will put them in the bottom of my humidor to let them get the least amount of outside air when the humidor is opened. Letting them age for several months or a year or more usually will remedy the aroma of ammonia.
Q: Is it okay for me to clip my cigars before putting them in the humidor?
A: Actually, there is a downside to pre-clipping as it is the intact head that "cements" the wrapper in place. Whenever you preclip a cigar you are increasing the likelihood that it may unravel. The less stable your humidor the more likely this will occur.
Now with that said, I have kept preclipped cigars for an extended period of time with no problem, while I have had others unroll themselves in days. Also pre-punching has less of an impact, but again there is no real benefit. The are only times I ever pre-clip: 1) I am going to be around several infrequent cigar smokers who have little or no experience with fine cigars and it's easier to pass out then sit there cutting a bunch of cigars, 2) I am on my way out the door and know that I am going to smoke them in the very near future, I will sometimes do the honors in advance especially if I don't have my travel humidor with me which is almost never. It's in my car all the time!
My advice is that you just avoid the potential unraveling problem and not make a habit of pre-clipping your smokes.
A: Well I have had a pasta jar humidor since 1992 and it's the best I have found for some long term storage but I can only hold 25 sticks at any one time. I do keep an eye on it so that my cigars don't get over humidified. I do have a gauge and humidification inside so it is controlled and I usually keep my cubans, hard to finds or limited release cigars in it and my storage is a year or better.
Q: Should I leave the cellophane on or take it off?
A: Leaving the cellophane on protects the cigars from tattering and splitting while you handle them. Also cellophaned cigars are easier to take on the "road" and to send to friends.
Without the cellophane, cigars tend to breath a little better, and in turn age better but not very quickly. Also I find it much more appealing to open my humidor and see cigars in the nude.
Cellophane is permeable to water and air allowing their transfer through its surface, but not as easily as without the cellophane. So if I receive a batch of cigars that is freshly rolled I sometimes remove the cello to allow the excess moisture incurred during the rolling process to dissipate. Cigars that become too moist in cellophane take a long time to dry out. Either way is appropriate, and in the end it is really just a matter of personal choice.
Q: Do cigars age in tubes?
A: Yes and no. Cigars seem to age some in the tubes, but mostly I think this is due to most tubes not having a true seal. In an absolutely sealed environment it is impossible for a cigar to have the necessary oxygen required for it to breath and age properly. You will note that on many tubes it mentions that a cigar will "remain fresh until opened" and personally I do not consider this an ultimately desirable goal. Tubes are great for protecting cigars for a few weeks, even months outside of a humidor if they have a good seal, but if tubed cigars are to be kept longer and you wish to ensure that they age properly I recommend you remove the end caps and place them in your humidor. With all of that said I have smoked many tubos whose seals were intact for years and their cigars were quite tasty. But no matter what you do, always store tubed cigars in a humidor if you are going to have them for any substantial length of time since most seals are not perfect.
Q: Can I leave the cigars in the boxes as they age?
A: Absolutely, in fact most collectors do. However if the box is sealed with a plastic wrap you should remove this prior to placing the box in your cabinet humidor or igloodor.
Q: Will my cigars "marry" if they are sitting side by side in my humidor without dividers or cellophane?
A: No. I understand the concept of marrying, and have witnessed claro cigars that have been slightly stained with oils from a dark rich colorado cigar that were sitting beside it, but that was only after MANY years. Honestly I do not consider the marrying of different cigars to be a problem for those who smoke from their humidors on a semi-regular basis.
I have been storing singles side by side for well over a decade with no impact whatsoever. Personally, I find the concept of marrying flavors between differing cigars to be an issue that "cigar wonks" banter about, but has little basis in reality and does not warrant any concern on your part. You have to keep in mind when you read all the recent advice printed about cigars that quite a bit of it is far too reaching and overtly scientific without cause.
I have kept a wide variety of smokes crammed together for long periods (5+ years) in my "smoke from someday" humidors without this ever occurring. The only place I would be concerned is to always keep flavored, i.e.. rum soaked, Lars, Acid etc. separate. Also for long term aging in quantity I believe in leaving the cigars in their original boxes if possible. Bottomline - the concept of cigar flavors marrying/blending is overhyped.
Q: Should I rotate the cigars in my humidor?
A: No. This is another bit of silly advice that is often recommended by the anal retentive. The difference between the relative humidity from the bottom to the top of your humidor is insignificant and is certainly nothing to worry about. Some "experts" have even suggested that by not rotating your cigars that "all the oils will settle to the bottom side." This is an incredibly lame statement. The essential oils in a cigar will always seep in the direction of a drier surface. In a stable environment this is almost always towards the top which is the side exposed to air. You will see these oils crystallize becoming plume (bloom) over months and years. It is possible for the cedar floor of your humidor to wick some oil to the bottom, but it happens so seldom and without any negative impact it is not even worthy of consideration. Eventually all excess oils will dissipate without a trace except for possibly bloom.
The only legit reason to rotate stock within your humidor is because you want your cigars to be more convenient for you to smoke. Less often smoked ones on the bottom, and the ones you are grabbing all the time on the top.
Q: Why does my humidor smell like ammonia when I open it?
A: Ammonia is typically expelled by cigars that are very young. Sometimes it is the result of them actually containing under-cured tobacco, but most commonly in premium cigars it means they are just young and require additional aging. If I get cigars that are young or under aged i will put them in the bottom of my humidor to let them get the least amount of outside air when the humidor is opened. Letting them age for several months or a year or more usually will remedy the aroma of ammonia.
Q: Is it okay for me to clip my cigars before putting them in the humidor?
A: Actually, there is a downside to pre-clipping as it is the intact head that "cements" the wrapper in place. Whenever you preclip a cigar you are increasing the likelihood that it may unravel. The less stable your humidor the more likely this will occur.
Now with that said, I have kept preclipped cigars for an extended period of time with no problem, while I have had others unroll themselves in days. Also pre-punching has less of an impact, but again there is no real benefit. The are only times I ever pre-clip: 1) I am going to be around several infrequent cigar smokers who have little or no experience with fine cigars and it's easier to pass out then sit there cutting a bunch of cigars, 2) I am on my way out the door and know that I am going to smoke them in the very near future, I will sometimes do the honors in advance especially if I don't have my travel humidor with me which is almost never. It's in my car all the time!
My advice is that you just avoid the potential unraveling problem and not make a habit of pre-clipping your smokes.
Q: I have noticed the foots of my cigars are swelling. Why?
A: This is a classic sign of cigars that are being over humidified. It's called “blossoming” like a flower does when it first starts to open (like a rose). Usually if I run into an over humidification problem I will remove my humidification device and leave the humidor cracked open to allow the cigars to calm down. Usuall several hours to over night and then slowly re-introduce the humidification source.
A: This is a classic sign of cigars that are being over humidified. It's called “blossoming” like a flower does when it first starts to open (like a rose). Usually if I run into an over humidification problem I will remove my humidification device and leave the humidor cracked open to allow the cigars to calm down. Usuall several hours to over night and then slowly re-introduce the humidification source.
Q: My cigars have something on them. How can I tell if it is mold or bloom?
A: Bloom, also called plume, is a grey/white residual powder that is left from the cigar's essential oils drying on its surface, and is considered a very good sign that the proper aging is taking place. Not all cigars develop bloom, but those that are heavy in oils almost always do over time. As cigars mature in the aging process some cigars will start to plume and long as its white in color your ok but any other color and you have a problem.
Mold always has some body to it, it is actually a three dimensional "fuzz." Typically it grows rather quickly once it occurs. Also it is commonly green, green/blue, or green/yellow in color.
Typically plume will cover almost evenly all the air-exposed sides of a cigar whereas mold will begin growing on just one part and spread from there.
If you still can't the difference I suggest you quarantine the potential problem cigars to their own tupperdor for a couple of weeks. After which you should be able to tell if it has continued to grow as mold would.
Q: Okay, it is mold... now what?
A: You can just brush the mold off and smoke them anyway. I have smoked a bunch of vintage cigars that have had some mold on them. It takes considerable mold and time to impact the flavor of the cigar - the biggest factor being whether they have molded on the interior. If so they are goners, if not you can just gently brush the mold off with a soft dry cloth. However, you should quarantine them from your other cigars to prevent it from spreading to them. Again with a soft cloth would be wise to go throughout your humidor and verify the mold has not spread to other cigars. If you see mold on parts of the humidification device or the wood itself you may need to do some cleaning and check the water your using and ensure it's not contaminated and it's “distilled.”
Q: I have noticed that some of my cigars have wrinkles in the wrappers. What causes this?
A: "Wrinkly wrappers" are typically caused by cigars which have experienced cycles of being over-humidified and then under-humidified. By the way, this is commonly called "crinkle" by many cigar collectors. It is the end result of the cigar's wrapper being stretched by the expanding filler when moist and the subsequent shrinkage when it dries. Basically they are just like "stretch marks."
These are very common in vintage cigars even if kept within ideal conditions. Over time the continuous shifting of a couple of points of %RH will result in crinkling. Also, this is not that uncommon in igloodors since the humidity tends to shoot up and down drastically with opening and closing. Unlike a wooden humidor, a cooler's plastic is unable to retain an ambient RH. The longer a cigar has been stored the more likely wrinkles are to occur.
Other than damaging the aesthetics, it typically does not impact the smoke. However, the wrappers will become more brittle as the wrinkling continues to occur and may eventually lead to cracking and splitting.
Q: Can I revive dried out cigars?
A: Sometimes. It depends on whether they have lost all of the essential oils. The best way to revive dried out cigars is to slowly bring them up to the desired humidity within a dry humidor. Basically you allow the humidor and the cigars reach the desired humidity simultaneously. If the cigars retained their oils then they will still be worthwhile to smoke, however if they have been dry for too long then they will have lost most if not all of their desirable flavors.
Q: Can I store my cigars at a cooler temperature than 50 degrees?
A: Certainly. Although it will slow down the process of their aging, it will do no harm to store them at cooler temperatures. Closer to 70 is ideal if at all possible so just watch where your humidor is located and what side of your home gets the most sunlight because even a few degrees warmer can affect a humidor if the outside of the box is considerably warmer. Cooler air conditioned rooms shouldn't cause to much of a problem but then again don't store your humidor in a room that is constantly 50-55 degrees all day and night.
Q: What about higher temperatures?
A: You should never store your cigars above 75 degrees if you can help it. Doing so risks the hatching of the dreaded tobacco beetle which will infest and destroy all of the cigars contained within your humidor if left unabated.
Q: Which is worse: low humidity or high humidity?
A: High humidity is of greater concern than low for a few reasons:
1) High humidity can cause some cigars to split, most won't, but it does happen.
2) Cigar won't burn or draw as well at high humidity, i.e.. a cigar stored at 65%RH will typically smoke great, while one at 75% is likely to be tight and burn uneven.
3) High humidity greatly increases your chance of mold.
So personally I would be more concerned with high humidity than low humidity, however it is still nothing to get overly concerned about. I wouldn't sweat anything 73% RH or lower as your humidor will bring it down with time. If it doesn't, then I suggest you just leave the lid of you humidor open for a few hours to help dry out the interior. Again excessively drier climates you need to move your standard 70% humidity up to say 74% and that's now your bottom end with 68% or less means your getting critically low in humidity.
Q: Even with the lid open the relative humidity is still too high. Now what?
A: If you live in region where the ambient relative humidity is greater than 70% then you may need to change your humidifier's charge to 75% PG and very little distilled water. This near water free combo will help to draw high humidity down. This combo is only needed for those who live in the most humid region and are not running air conditioning. Check you ambient RH with your hygrometer before applying this advice.
Q: Can I convert my end table into a humidor?
A: Maybe, but not likely. Most furniture does not provide the quality seal that is required to maintain a stable relative humidity. Also furniture is simply not designed to endure the continual stress that a humidor commonly endures from having such a drastically different RH on its interior compare to its exterior surface. Most furniture will eventually warp and in some cases split under the pressures.
Humidor Humidity Troubleshooting Hints:
The first thing to do is relax. I know I have said this a zillion times already, but I can not emphasize it enough. Most new smokers have heard the mantra of 70/70 so often and so loudly that they are simply wound too tight. Consider this your deprogramming from the "70/70 Zealots" evil ways.
Patience is the key, do not expect anything to happen within a few hours. This is difficult for some to accept, but you just have to. Overreacting is the number one problem. Most humidors and humidifiers will function as desired if afforded the time they need to do the job. Stabilizing a humidor takes a couple of months even if it's a expensive humidor with top craftsmanship. Nothing happens over night so be patient because peaks and valley's are going to happen when you first get a humidor seasoned and up and running.
If the relative humidity is too low:
1) Add distilled water to the credo but do not oversaturate. Remember a Credo requires time to stabilize also... give it a couple of days before you judge the results.
2) Visually inspect the humidor checking all the seal lines and joints. A great way to do this is to place a lit flashlight into your humidor, close the lid, and inspect in a dark room. If there are any poorly fitted joints or seal the light will show through. Usually when you let the lid of a humidor close by itself it will have a cushioned sound when it closes (a poof sound). If it sounds like wood slamming against wood you have apotential warping or a leak somewhere and you need to find this before seasoning your humidor.
3) Confirm all the exterior sides are sealed with a high quality poly product.
Still low? Then:
1) Add a second credo.
2)Recheck the accuracy of your hygrometer.
3)A shot glass of distilled water may help especially in your excessively drier climtes.
Still too low? Then:
1) Take the entire humidor and place it in a large plastic trash bag, squeeze out the excess air, and seal for a few days.
2) Then open and check the humidity, if it is okay now then the humidor has some sort of problem that is not visually discernable, and you should contact the manufacturer/retailer of your humidor.
If the relative humidity is too high:
1) You probably over saturated the humidifier. Pull it out and give it a couple of days to dry out. If you live in an area where the ambient humidity is higher than 70% then you should utilize a hair dryer set on LOW COOL AIR ONLY to assist in drying out your credo.
2)Open the humidor and allow it to dry also.
Still too high? Then:
1) Completely rinse out your credo with distilled water and completely dry it out. Recharge with a 75% PG/25% Distilled Water mixture. The PG to Water ratio is not an exact science, and in areas with high humidity the 75/25 mixture does a better job of regulating.
2) Recheck the accuracy of your hygrometer.
3) Perform the above mentioned plastic bag trick.
A: Bloom, also called plume, is a grey/white residual powder that is left from the cigar's essential oils drying on its surface, and is considered a very good sign that the proper aging is taking place. Not all cigars develop bloom, but those that are heavy in oils almost always do over time. As cigars mature in the aging process some cigars will start to plume and long as its white in color your ok but any other color and you have a problem.
Mold always has some body to it, it is actually a three dimensional "fuzz." Typically it grows rather quickly once it occurs. Also it is commonly green, green/blue, or green/yellow in color.
Typically plume will cover almost evenly all the air-exposed sides of a cigar whereas mold will begin growing on just one part and spread from there.
If you still can't the difference I suggest you quarantine the potential problem cigars to their own tupperdor for a couple of weeks. After which you should be able to tell if it has continued to grow as mold would.
Q: Okay, it is mold... now what?
A: You can just brush the mold off and smoke them anyway. I have smoked a bunch of vintage cigars that have had some mold on them. It takes considerable mold and time to impact the flavor of the cigar - the biggest factor being whether they have molded on the interior. If so they are goners, if not you can just gently brush the mold off with a soft dry cloth. However, you should quarantine them from your other cigars to prevent it from spreading to them. Again with a soft cloth would be wise to go throughout your humidor and verify the mold has not spread to other cigars. If you see mold on parts of the humidification device or the wood itself you may need to do some cleaning and check the water your using and ensure it's not contaminated and it's “distilled.”
Q: I have noticed that some of my cigars have wrinkles in the wrappers. What causes this?
A: "Wrinkly wrappers" are typically caused by cigars which have experienced cycles of being over-humidified and then under-humidified. By the way, this is commonly called "crinkle" by many cigar collectors. It is the end result of the cigar's wrapper being stretched by the expanding filler when moist and the subsequent shrinkage when it dries. Basically they are just like "stretch marks."
These are very common in vintage cigars even if kept within ideal conditions. Over time the continuous shifting of a couple of points of %RH will result in crinkling. Also, this is not that uncommon in igloodors since the humidity tends to shoot up and down drastically with opening and closing. Unlike a wooden humidor, a cooler's plastic is unable to retain an ambient RH. The longer a cigar has been stored the more likely wrinkles are to occur.
Other than damaging the aesthetics, it typically does not impact the smoke. However, the wrappers will become more brittle as the wrinkling continues to occur and may eventually lead to cracking and splitting.
Q: Can I revive dried out cigars?
A: Sometimes. It depends on whether they have lost all of the essential oils. The best way to revive dried out cigars is to slowly bring them up to the desired humidity within a dry humidor. Basically you allow the humidor and the cigars reach the desired humidity simultaneously. If the cigars retained their oils then they will still be worthwhile to smoke, however if they have been dry for too long then they will have lost most if not all of their desirable flavors.
Q: Can I store my cigars at a cooler temperature than 50 degrees?
A: Certainly. Although it will slow down the process of their aging, it will do no harm to store them at cooler temperatures. Closer to 70 is ideal if at all possible so just watch where your humidor is located and what side of your home gets the most sunlight because even a few degrees warmer can affect a humidor if the outside of the box is considerably warmer. Cooler air conditioned rooms shouldn't cause to much of a problem but then again don't store your humidor in a room that is constantly 50-55 degrees all day and night.
Q: What about higher temperatures?
A: You should never store your cigars above 75 degrees if you can help it. Doing so risks the hatching of the dreaded tobacco beetle which will infest and destroy all of the cigars contained within your humidor if left unabated.
Q: Which is worse: low humidity or high humidity?
A: High humidity is of greater concern than low for a few reasons:
1) High humidity can cause some cigars to split, most won't, but it does happen.
2) Cigar won't burn or draw as well at high humidity, i.e.. a cigar stored at 65%RH will typically smoke great, while one at 75% is likely to be tight and burn uneven.
3) High humidity greatly increases your chance of mold.
So personally I would be more concerned with high humidity than low humidity, however it is still nothing to get overly concerned about. I wouldn't sweat anything 73% RH or lower as your humidor will bring it down with time. If it doesn't, then I suggest you just leave the lid of you humidor open for a few hours to help dry out the interior. Again excessively drier climates you need to move your standard 70% humidity up to say 74% and that's now your bottom end with 68% or less means your getting critically low in humidity.
Q: Even with the lid open the relative humidity is still too high. Now what?
A: If you live in region where the ambient relative humidity is greater than 70% then you may need to change your humidifier's charge to 75% PG and very little distilled water. This near water free combo will help to draw high humidity down. This combo is only needed for those who live in the most humid region and are not running air conditioning. Check you ambient RH with your hygrometer before applying this advice.
Q: Can I convert my end table into a humidor?
A: Maybe, but not likely. Most furniture does not provide the quality seal that is required to maintain a stable relative humidity. Also furniture is simply not designed to endure the continual stress that a humidor commonly endures from having such a drastically different RH on its interior compare to its exterior surface. Most furniture will eventually warp and in some cases split under the pressures.
Humidor Humidity Troubleshooting Hints:
The first thing to do is relax. I know I have said this a zillion times already, but I can not emphasize it enough. Most new smokers have heard the mantra of 70/70 so often and so loudly that they are simply wound too tight. Consider this your deprogramming from the "70/70 Zealots" evil ways.
Patience is the key, do not expect anything to happen within a few hours. This is difficult for some to accept, but you just have to. Overreacting is the number one problem. Most humidors and humidifiers will function as desired if afforded the time they need to do the job. Stabilizing a humidor takes a couple of months even if it's a expensive humidor with top craftsmanship. Nothing happens over night so be patient because peaks and valley's are going to happen when you first get a humidor seasoned and up and running.
If the relative humidity is too low:
1) Add distilled water to the credo but do not oversaturate. Remember a Credo requires time to stabilize also... give it a couple of days before you judge the results.
2) Visually inspect the humidor checking all the seal lines and joints. A great way to do this is to place a lit flashlight into your humidor, close the lid, and inspect in a dark room. If there are any poorly fitted joints or seal the light will show through. Usually when you let the lid of a humidor close by itself it will have a cushioned sound when it closes (a poof sound). If it sounds like wood slamming against wood you have apotential warping or a leak somewhere and you need to find this before seasoning your humidor.
3) Confirm all the exterior sides are sealed with a high quality poly product.
Still low? Then:
1) Add a second credo.
2)Recheck the accuracy of your hygrometer.
3)A shot glass of distilled water may help especially in your excessively drier climtes.
Still too low? Then:
1) Take the entire humidor and place it in a large plastic trash bag, squeeze out the excess air, and seal for a few days.
2) Then open and check the humidity, if it is okay now then the humidor has some sort of problem that is not visually discernable, and you should contact the manufacturer/retailer of your humidor.
If the relative humidity is too high:
1) You probably over saturated the humidifier. Pull it out and give it a couple of days to dry out. If you live in an area where the ambient humidity is higher than 70% then you should utilize a hair dryer set on LOW COOL AIR ONLY to assist in drying out your credo.
2)Open the humidor and allow it to dry also.
Still too high? Then:
1) Completely rinse out your credo with distilled water and completely dry it out. Recharge with a 75% PG/25% Distilled Water mixture. The PG to Water ratio is not an exact science, and in areas with high humidity the 75/25 mixture does a better job of regulating.
2) Recheck the accuracy of your hygrometer.
3) Perform the above mentioned plastic bag trick.
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